Bill and Sue-On Hillman: A 50-Year Travel Odyssey

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HILLMAN INDONESIA ADVENTURE
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2. The Great Mosque of Medan

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The Great Mosque of Medan (Masjid Raya Al Mashun) was built from 1906 to 1909. In the beginning of its establishment, the mosque was a part of the Maimun palace complex -- both designed by Dutch architect Theodoor van Erpwho. Its architectural style combines Middle Eastern, Indian and Spanish elements.

The mosque has an octagonal shape and has wings to the south, east, north and west. The construction required the import of different building materials such as: marble from Italy, Germany and China and the stained glass from the chandelier imported from France. The mosque has five domes as a symbol of five prayer times and eight pillars to symbolize eight cardinal directions. The Great Mosque is the one of the largest and most beautiful mosques in Sumatra. It is used regularly by the Moslem community in Medan for daily prayers.

Our first visit in the city was to The Great Mosque where we were met by a local guide. As with other mosques, women must be dressed appropriately, with the legs and hair covered. Men wearing shorts must wear sarongs. As part of our tour we were issued the necessary clothes before entering the building. Bill avoided having to wear a skirt by attaching his zip off pant legs to his shorts but Sue-On donned the "hijab" to cover her hair and neck.

Next we were directed to a water trough where Muslims must wash before entering the mosque. Women are not allowed in during their menstraul periods and men and women have to enter separately and pray in different parts of the mosque. There were large speaker horns on the mosque which blared out a constant barrage of loud ritual prayers and chants.

We entered the mosque where hundreds of women were all facing Mecca and praying while in a prostrate position. Their heads, knees and hands were placed on the floor in the "sajdah" position. Muslims are expected to pray five times a day. The walls and ceilings were all very elaborately decorated. Our guide then led us out along a covered walkway to an area overlooking the cemetary with its many gravestones. He then gave a long talk explaining the history of the mosque and Muslim customs.

Our group posed for photos in front of the mosque and walked back to the "gate house" where we returned our costumes. Bill had some photos taken with the security guards. We then returned to the street to take the short walk to Maimoon Palace. The street was lined with elaborate billboards made of flower blossoms.

Along the streets to the Great Mosque

Passing through the "gate house"
where we were issued acceptable mosque attire
Bill taking a breather after walking and listening to Edi, our guide.
He was full of information, a LOT of information...LOL!
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The courtyard in front of the Mosque where we met our local guide.
There is a trough with taps along one wall where devotees must go and do the ritual washing before entering the mosque -
beginning with the hands, mouth, nostrils, eyes, forehead, brows, hair, feet ... 3 times before entering the mosque.
Muslim women are expected to cover their bodies, heat-to-toe, even though the tropical temperatures are extreme,
while the men wear more comfortable t-shirts and jeans.
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Sue-On and the women were issued hijab headscarves to cover their hair and necks.
Both men and women had to wear sarongs unless they were dressed in long pants.
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Muslim Women in Prayer
The mosque was built by a Dutch architect. It has several assmbly rooms.
This one can accommodate 1500 worshippers, sitting side by side, the closer the better, all facing Mecca.
There are movable partition when separation is needed between men and women.
Today, it was 99% women with a few men at the front of the room.

Elaborate Interior of the Mosque
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View of the Cemetery Grounds from the Mosque
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Our Group Photos in front of the Mosque
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Bill makes friends with the security guards who are quite relaxed and friendly.
The ones with firearms are off to the side.
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Bill and Sue-On Hillman