Aarti is a Hindu spiritual ceremony
performed by Brahmin disciples to honour the holy river, gods and deities.
It takes place every night at around 7 pm. After sunset as we headed back
upstream to the ceremony site we were given little trays with tiny flowers
surrounding a magnolia votive-scented candle. Parry lit these and we set
them off onto the Ganges while making a wish. It was beautiful to see hundreds
of these candles floating on the water -- part of a centuries-long ritual.
We returned to the main loading
area to find two beautifully-lit platform stages. Our boat was parked along
with many others to watch the evening ceremony. The one closest to us had
seven priests performing various sets of actions: to make offerings to
Shiva and various other gods, and finally to bless the gathered people.
Devotees believe that by attending the ceremony purification and blessings
are bestowed upon them. There were incense braziers, fans, lit multi-candle
candelabras, and a kind of giant "Aladdin's lamp" holder with a flame.
Each instrument was used for a few minutes facing each of the cardinals
direction. We were glad at all times that the breeze was from the water
TO the shore. The light show was brilliant. The ritual is a highly choreographed
ceremony and includes the blowing of conch shells, waving of lamps filled
with incense, and dancing with fire. The sounds were hypnotic and loud
-- hand cymbals, tabla, chanting, etc. It was one of the few times
we didn't hear the honking of street vehicle horns -- just a little too
far from the traffic area.
The second platform had five
priests doing the same routine. Finally, we got back to shore and
walked the distance to our tuk-tuks to go back to the hotel. It was funny
to see more of the hawlers enroute. They all seemed to use the same spiel
"Buy postcards, sir? 100 rupees only ... I want to earn enough money to
go to school. No buy, sir? Ma'am? So sad. .. Maybe tomorrow? I wait for
you tomorrow. My name is Raj. See you tomorrow, sir. Have a good night"
Parry said they are all called Raj and all use the same line. We WERE indeed
approached by another young man the next morning -- again, Raj ;-) "Remember
me from before -- I am Raj"
After reaching our hotel, our
entry was via the back lane with the doorman unlocking the door! We had
a late supper in the hotel restaurant and didn’t get to bed until around
11:30. Really tired, from the total assault on our senses and lack
of sleep -- and we and had to be up for a 5 am departure in time for the
morning sunrise on the Ganges.
